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CAULK COUNTER AT WALL OR BACKSPLASH JUNCTURE
CAULK
COUNTER AT WALL OR BACKSPLASH JUNCTURE:
Caulking eventually loses its watertight seal
around bathtubs, showers, and sinks. It will
therefore be necessary to re-caulk around these
areas to help prevent water damage to walls,
cabinets, floors, ceilings, structural members,
etc. Water allowed on these components can cause
severe damage. Good maintenance, which includes
keeping these spots well sealed, will help
prevent more costly repairs later on. Here are
some pointers which will help you do a neat and
longer-lasting job when applying caulks. Get a
caulking gun to apply these caulks. Usually the
smaller caulking guns are easiest to use. Before
you start, make sure to clean out all of the old
caulk, then wash the joint with a detergent to
which you have added a little household laundry
bleach (one part bleach to three parts water).
Allow the area to dry. This will clean the
surfaces and kill any mildew in the joint. Cut
the plastic tip of the cartridge nozzle or
squeeze tube off at approximately a 45 degree
angle, then hold the tube at this same angle to
the joint as you move it along. Move the tip
toward or away from you, depending on the
situation. Always apply caulks neatly. Smearing
it all over with your finger is not the way to
apply caulk. If necessary, apply masking tape to
each side of the joint to be caulked and remove
it as soon as you have worked the caulk bead. Do
not allow the caulk to dry. The list below will
help decide the best type of caulk to use. These
materials can be purchased at most any Building
Supply Outlet or Home Improvement Center. Should
you need assistance you may desire to contact a
Painting Contractor or Handyman Service.
PAINTABLE SILICONE CAULK is one of the few
readily available caulks which will stick to
just about anything (if the surface is dry) and
that is paintable (meaning the caulk can be
painted). It can be used in exterior as well as
interior applications. It can be applied between
10°F and 120°F with a service range of between
minus 30°F to 200°F. It is excellent for use
on windows, doors, siding (stucco and wood),
sills, thresholds, eaves, soffits, gutters,
downspouts, flashing, air conditioners, pipes,
vents, porches, decks, sidewalks, pool
perimeters (coping to deck separations), tubs,
showers, sinks, countertops, etc. This material
comes in basic white and crystal clear. Because
of it's flexibility (up to 10 times it's
original size) silicone caulk is not
particularly good for interior wall cracks
because it is not "sandable" and will
show through the paint. Provide plenty of
ventilation when using this product in interior
applica- tions. It's life expectancy is about 20
years. ACRYLIC LATEX CAULK is one of the most
commonly used caulking compounds. It offers
better adhesion, less shrinkage, and easier
application than oil based compounds. Elasticity
and weather resistance are rather low, and it
will not bleed through most paints. Its life
expectancy is about 10 years. ADHESIVE CAULKS
act as both a caulk for sealing joints and as an
adhesive for a variety of jobs, such as setting
loose ceramic tile or securing loose counter
tops and lavatories. BUTYL-RUBBER CAULK
COMPOUNDS are rubber based caulks having good
weather resistance and fair elasticity and
shrinkage. They work well between many
dissimilar materials and have a life expectancy
of up to 20 years. A less expensive form which
contains styrene-butadiene rubber does not age
as well but is suitable for interior use. OIL
BASED COMPOUNDS are the least expensive and the
most difficult to work with. They will fill most
small cracks, but have low elasticity and a
short life span, usually one to five years and
can bleed through most paints if not properly
sealed. PAINTERS CAULKING COMPOUNDS are fairly
flexible and are used mainly to fill small holes
and cracks prior to painting. These caulks may
be of differing materials. Life expectancy is
about the same as the paint covering them--two
to ten years. SILICONE ACRYLIC CAULKING
COMPOUNDS are similar to acrylic latex
compounds, but contain silicone for added
flexibility. It is easy to work with and is
compatible with most materials.
NO VENTILATION (EXHAUST FAN
OR OPENABLE WINDOW RECOMMENDED):
STAINLESS STEEL LAVATORY
VITREOUS CHINA LAVATORY
LAVATORY-COUNTERTOP MOULDED
AS ONE-PIECE UNIT
LAVATORY LET IN TO TILE OR
OTHER MATERIALS
HOADIE RING
SELF RIMMING LAVATORY /
MOULDED ONE PIECE UNIT
FREE STANDING OR WALL HUNG
LAVATORY
"UNDER-SINK" VALVES
PLASTIC LAMINATE (FORMICA ®)
VANITY TOP OR BACK SPLASH
ACRYLICS (CORIAN®) / GRANITE
/ MARBLE / OTHER VANITY TOP MATERIALS
WINDOW
EXHAUST FAN
NON-MECHANICAL VENT
CEILING HEAT LAMP
ELECTRIC CEILING OR WALL
HEATER
NO VENTILATION NOTED
CARPETED BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE OR MARBLE
BATHROOM FLOOR CERAMIC TILE
VINYL BATHROOM FLOORS COVED
VINYL
WOOD OR CORK BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO OR SLATE BATHROOM
FLOORS TERRAZZO
WOOD SUBFLOOR
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